Installing your Henry Trigger and Spring
Your Ranger Point Henry Trigger Kit consists of a sear and a spring. The sear alone will reduce trigger pull weight to approximately 3.5 lbs, and make the break much more crisp. Only install the spring if you want a lighter, competition weight trigger. Note: our testing of the Henry 410 shotgun models revealed a lighter than normal trigger from the factory, and our sear alone reduced pull weight below 3 lbs.
1. Ensure the rifle’s chamber and magazine are empty.
2. Remove the butt stock by withdrawing the screw at the rear of the top receiver tang and sliding the butt stock rearward. Some gentle bumps with the palm of your hand may be necessary.
3. Lower the hammer fully, then unload the hammer spring by rotating the top of the spring strut bridge sideways until it is free from the receiver tang.
4. Open the finger lever partially, then remove the lever pivot screw and withdraw the lever from the bottom of the receiver. Push the breech bolt forward into battery. It can remain in the receiver.
5. Remove the three screws holding the trigger plate: a) the hammer pivot nearest the butt stock on the right side of the receiver, b) the large bottom screw about ¾” behind the forearm, and c) the left side support screw.
6. Lay the rifle on its side, with ejection port up, and draw the trigger plate out of the bottom of the receiver, followed by the hammer, if it remains inside. Observe: the trigger group with its bright metal linkage and tall “L” shaped transfer bar. These items should be left undisturbed, but take a couple of pictures of their orientation in case they fall out.
7. Use finger and thumb to depress the sear coil spring and remove it from its seat at the left side of the sear.
8. Use a 1/16” punch to push the sear pivot pin out of its race to free the sear (the beaked object behind the trigger that looks just like the RPP replacement part).
9. Install the RPP sear in the spot just vacated by the factory part. The trigger safety tab behind the trigger must be pushed up slightly to get the sear pivot pin all the way through. Install the sear spring by seating it, compressing it, and tucking the top under the trigger linkage tab. Use the factory spring for 3.5lb pull, and RPP spring for approximately 3lb pull.
10. Rotate the L shaped transfer bar to point up, away from the trigger plate, then slide the hammer onto it. The transfer bar should go into the channel on the front face of the hammer, behind the roll pin.
11. Keeping the entire trigger and hammer assembly together, slide the trigger plate back up into the receiver, threading the hammer spur through the slot behind the bolt. Align the hammer visually, then reinstall the hammer pivot screw loosely, followed by the two trigger plate screws (the shorter goes on the left side). Tighten all three screws.
12. With the hammer fully forward (don’t forget the trigger safety must be depressed to pull the trigger), reinstall the hammer spring, and then the hammer strut bridge, by forcing the bridge forward onto the strut until the base of the bridge seats in the lower tang slot. A hard pusher tool, like a flat screwdriver, can make things less painful.
13. Hold the rifle upright, cock the hammer, then use your thumb to withdraw the bolt slightly, and reinstall the lever and pivot screw, being sure to get the thin blade into the bolt slot.
14. Shut the lever, and pointing in a safe direction always, test the trigger. If all is well, reinstall the butt stock with its attendant screw.
What can you expect?
Comments
0 comments
Please sign in to leave a comment.