Installation Instructions for RPP Marlin Trigger
Important! Installing this trigger will substantially reduce the effort necessary to fire the weapon, and significantly increase the possibility of an accidental discharge if safe practices are not followed. Remember the important firearm safety rule: Never put your finger on the trigger until the gun is pointed at a target you intend to fire upon. You, the end user, are responsible for the safe use of your firearm, always. No firearm should be deemed safe for live fire until it has been tested unloaded.
- Check—then double check—that your rifle is unloaded, with chamber empty
- Remove butt stock screw from top rear tang, then gently bump and pull stock rearward off receiver.
- De-cock hammer to at rest position against bolt (safety off if applicable)
- Pull hammer spring bridge sideways from between upper and lower tangs, releasing hammer spring.
- Open lever partially, remove lever pivot screw, and pull lever downward out of receiver.
- Invert rifle on a workbench and remove forward action screw just behind forearm/receiver junction.
- Lay rifle on right side and remove trigger plate support screw at low center of receiver.
- Lay rifle on left side and remove hammer pivot screw at rear of receiver.
- Remove hammer, then grasp lower tang and pull trigger plate out of receiver bottom.
- Locate large diameter trigger pivot pin on trigger plate, and use a small punch to push it out, releasing the factory trigger and sear. Unless the parts are old and crusty, a hammer is not necessary.
- Take the opportunity to clean and lubricate the action and small parts. It isn’t necessary to remove any other screws. The locking lug will slide out of the bottom of the receiver. The bolt will slide out to the rear (careful not to lose the ejector inside the bolt channel). The carrier will swing downward. Go ahead and check that loading gate screw for tightness
- Time to install your new trigger! For this step strong lighting will be helpful. Taking care not to separate the RP trigger and sear, slide the assembly upward into the trigger plate, allowing the bottom of the trigger to rotate forward. Be sure the sear is behind the lever plunger catch pin. Using your thumb near the top of the trigger face, push the assembly up and back against the sear spring until you can see the pivot holes align. With your other hand, start the freshly oiled pivot pin in the opposite side of the trigger plate. Using both hands to keep the trigger assembly aligned, finish installing the pivot pin by pushing the entire trigger plate gently down onto your workbench, wiggling the trigger assembly as necessary for alignment. Excessive force should never be necessary. Take your time, and remember that the sear and trigger can move independently.
- Reassemble the action. Be sure to put that locking lug back in, then push the trigger plate back into the bottom of the receiver. If the fit is tight, use a screwdriver handle to tap it into position until the screw holes line up.
- Place a drop of blue Loctite (optional, but recommended) on the two trigger plate screws—but not the hammer pivot! Install the foremost (longer) screw first, finger tight, then the left side (shorter) support screw. Be sure of alignment, as it is easy to cross thread the support screw.
- Slide the hammer, strut first, through the opening in the top tang, and wrangle it into position at the pivot. To do this you will need to fully depress the trigger to get the sear out of the way, and to do that you need to disengage the trigger safety by pushing the tab upward with a thumb. Once the trigger is depressed, the hammer should slide easily into alignment at the pivot hole.
- Install the hammer pivot screw. Once the threads are started flip the rifle over and get a drop of blue Loctite into the receiver threads at the hammer pivot, then torque all three actions screws and wipe away excess thread lock.
- Install your choice of hammer spring on the hammer strut. The factory spring (shorter) will give a trigger pull weight of roughly 3.5 lbs, whereas a Wolff Reduced Power Hammer Spring will typically give a pull weight of less than 3 lbs, as well as reducing cycling effort. If you are not comfortable with a 2.5-3lb trigger pull, then don’t use the Wolff power spring!
- With the hammer spring/strut angled outward, put the bridge in place and compress the spring until the lower leg of the bridge can be set into its groove in the lower tang. Continue compressing the spring until the upper leg of the bridge can be pushed under the upper tang, and center the bridge in the receiver.
- Reinstall remaining parts in reverse order of disassembly.
- Test your trigger! With the rifle empty, check pull weight and verify that it will be safe for you or any less experienced shooter who may use your rifle.
- Perform a bump test. With the rifle unloaded and hammer cocked, bump the butt pad of the rifle firmly on a padded floor to verify the hammer doesn’t drop. Just don’t get carried away and crack your stock.
- Before fielding the rifle, verify that the hammer will reliably ignite live primers/ammo in a safe shooting environment. This is especially important if using the reduced power hammer spring.
Marlin Trigger Installation Video
Wolff Reduced Hammer Spring mentioned in the video DOES NOT come with your Ranger Point trigger replacement part.
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